Late afternoon in the red desert: a long ledge of red rock shades a dark pool, kangaroos come in across the spinifex, and a few of the band sit by their windbreaks.

Western Desert · modern-day Central Australia

The Great South Land

The third place you can be born in Ice Age Life. Out here the water decides where everyone is.

Meet the land

The land you’ll live in

Wait at the water
and the meat walks to you.

From the Water Year, the Great South Land’s year in Ice Age Life
Red sand and spinifex run down to a ledge of red rock with water under it, kangaroos coming in to drink, seeding grass in the foreground and a curved brush windbreak on the rise.

The water decides.

After the rain you can go anywhere. When it stops, the band can only be where the water is, and the best water is a rock-hole under a ledge that someone showed you once.

The meat comes to drink.

Kangaroos and emus have to drink too. Sit still downwind of the water at dusk and you don’t have to chase anything.

Roots and seed carry you through.

Dig roots, pick seed and fruit when they’re there, and bring it all back to the water. Meat doesn’t keep, so you eat it when it walks in.

The nights are cold.

The days burn, but the cold comes up off the sand after dark. Each family bends boughs and spinifex into a windbreak with its back to the wind.

Sand keeps a track longer than a mouth keeps a promise.An old saying of the Great South Land, in the game.

Where on Earth

The Western Desert,in today’s Central Australia.

The third homeland is in the Cleland Hills, about 350 km west of Alice Springs, in Australia’s Northern Territory. In the Ice Age the sea was low enough that Australia, New Guinea and Tasmania were one land, which archaeologists call Sahul, and this desert was colder and drier than it is today.

  • Homeland3 of 8
  • Opens afterthe East Wind Plains
  • Roughly23.6° S, 130.6° E

Red Ledge is one of the bands that winters at the water here.

Someone who knows the way.
Someone learning it.

Manta, small and gray-haired, sits in the shade of a red rock ledge with her feet out in front of her while Tjulpu, nine and still dripping from the pool below, crouches beside her and laughs.

Tjulpu, nine

All bones and noise, her grandmother says. She’d rather swim in the water than think about where it is.

Manta, her grandmother

She knows the country better than anyone in the band, and she’s decided it’s time Tjulpu learned it too.

A story from Red Ledge

The Way Back

About 9 minutes

Tjulpu runs ahead of the band into a long dark pool under an overhang of red rock while her mother, just starting to show, follows slowly and her grandmother Manta already sits in the shade up on the ledge.

Late summer

When the rain stopped

For a while after the rain, you could go anywhere. Every hollow in the rock held water and every claypan was a sheet of sky, and the Red Ledge band went out across the country in twos and threes and hardly saw each other for a month.

Then the rain stopped, and the country started to shrink.

Tjulpu noticed it the way children do, by the games. The claypan where she and her cousins slid on their bellies went to mud, then to cracked plates that curled up at the edges. The hollow by the camp went green, then went bad. One morning her mother Kapi looked at the sky for a long time, then started rolling up the sleeping skins.

“We're going in,” she said.

Everyone was going in. Over the next days the families came back from wherever they'd been, all walking the same way, toward the ledge.

The big water sat under it: a long dark pool in the shade of an overhang of red rock, cold enough to make your teeth ache. Tjulpu ran the last part and went in up to her chest and came out yelling. Her mother came after her slowly, one hand on her belly, which was just starting to show.

Up on the ledge, her grandmother Manta was already sitting in the shade with her feet out in front of her, as if she'd been there all summer.

“Look at you,” Manta said. “All bones and noise.”

Under a low shelf of red rock, Tjulpu lies on her stomach with her whole face in the water at the bottom of a rock-hole while Manta, sitting on the rock with one hand flat on it, laughs.

The walk

Manta woke her before it was light and said, “Come on,” and nothing else.

They walked out past the last of the windbreaks and kept going. The sand was cold under Tjulpu's feet, and then it wasn't. She asked where they were going and Manta didn't answer, so she stopped asking, and after a while she went quiet the way Manta was quiet, just walking.

The sun came up. It got hot. A long way from camp, Manta stopped at a shelf of red rock that looked exactly like every other shelf of red rock Tjulpu had ever seen. She put her hand flat on it and waited.

Tjulpu looked. Then she looked properly.

There was a hole under the overhang, about as wide as two people lying down, and down in the bottom of it, in the shade, there was water.

She didn't think about anything. She was hot and she was nine and there was water, so she lay down on her stomach and put her whole face in it.

Behind her, Manta laughed. It was a big laugh for such a small old woman.

When Tjulpu came up dripping, Manta was sitting on the rock. “Good,” she said. “Now look at everything else.”

“Like what?”

“The ridge behind it. Which way the ground falls. That tree.” She pointed with her chin. “It's a different green from all the others. See it?”

Tjulpu saw it.

“Who else knows about this?” she asked.

“Hardly anyone. I found it when I was about your age, chasing a lizard.” Manta looked at the water. “Nobody walks this far for water this small. But it's here when the big water isn't. It's no good to anybody if nobody remembers it.”

Manta and Tjulpu walk a dry creek bed of white stones in the cool early light, the old woman pointing with her chin at the shape of a low red ridge ahead.

Winter

Learning it

Walking home, Manta made her say it. The ridge. The fall of the ground. The tree. The dry creek with the white stones in it. The place where the spinifex stops and the gravel starts.

Tjulpu got the creek wrong, and Manta took her back out two days later and walked it again.

Then again.

By the third time Tjulpu was angry. “I know it.”

“You know it walking with me,” Manta said. “That's not the same thing.”

The days got shorter. The nights got cold, properly cold, the kind of cold that comes straight up off the sand after dark, and the families pulled their windbreaks in close around the fires. At dusk the men went and sat downwind of the big water and didn't move, sometimes until it was too dark to see. The kangaroos came in to drink anyway. They had to. Everything did.

“That's the whole trick,” Manta said, when Tjulpu asked why they didn't go out and hunt like people did after the rain. “Wait at the water and the meat walks to you.”

In the afternoon shade, Kapi, heavily pregnant, leans back against the warm red rock of the ledge while Tjulpu, kneeling beside her, rests a hand on the hide over her stomach.

Kapi was huge by then. She sat with her back against the warm side of the ledge in the afternoons and let Tjulpu put her hand on her stomach to feel the baby kick.

“Is it a girl?”

“It's a baby,” her mother said. “Get your hand off, it's asleep.”

At night by the fire, Manta sits with her swollen foot raised on a rolled skin and points across the flames at Tjulpu, while her aunt Ilkari and two men turn to look at the girl.

The water goes down

All winter the big water went down.

It went down slowly, a finger's width at a time, and then less slowly. The cold edge of the pool pulled back under the overhang. The children stopped swimming in it. Then the women started digging in the wet sand at the bottom, and the water that came up was brown and tasted of mud, and two of the little ones got sick from it.

Then Manta cut her foot.

It was nothing at first: a sharp stone, a little blood. But it swelled up hot and shiny, and by the next morning she couldn't put it on the ground.

The men talked by the fire about the far water to the east, two days' walk, maybe three. Tjulpu listened from her skins. Two days was nothing for them. It was a lot for a woman about to have a baby. It was impossible for a woman who couldn't walk.

“She can't go two days,” Tjulpu's aunt Ilkari said, looking at Kapi.

“She doesn't have to,” Manta said from the dark at the edge of the fire.

Everyone turned.

“There's closer water. Out west, a morning's walk. It's small, but it holds.” Manta pointed at Tjulpu. “She knows where it is.”

Tjulpu felt the whole fire look at her.

“Then tell us the way,” one of the men said to Manta.

“I can't tell it. I can only walk it,” Manta said. “She's walked it. She'll take you.”

In the early morning, in wide red country, Tjulpu stands still looking at a low ridge while her pregnant mother, her aunt and a small boy carrying skins wait behind her.

The way back

They left before it was light: Tjulpu in front, then her mother walking slowly with one hand under her stomach, then Ilkari and her boy with all the skins they could carry. The rest would follow tomorrow, with Manta.

At first it was easy. Tjulpu knew the start. Then the sun came up and everything changed color and nothing looked the way it had.

The dry creek was there, with its white stones. Good. But the place where the spinifex stopped was farther than she remembered, and when she got there the ridge didn't look right. It was the right shape, but it was in the wrong place.

She stood still. Everybody stood still behind her.

“Tjulpu?” her mother said.

She was going to cry. She could feel it coming up. She'd done it with Manta three times, and she'd been so angry the third time, and now she was going to stand here in the middle of nothing and cry in front of everyone.

So she did what Manta had done. She stopped looking for the water and looked at everything else.

The ground fell to the left. It had fallen to the left before, too. She turned until the ridge was the shape she had in her head, which meant walking a long way to her right, out of the way, and her mother didn't say anything, which was worse than if she had.

Tjulpu runs toward a single tree of a different green beside a low shelf of red rock, her mother and aunt far behind her.

And there, ahead of them, was one tree a different green from all the others.

Tjulpu ran. She ran to the shelf of red rock that looked like every other shelf of red rock and got down on her knees and looked under it, and the water was there. It was lower than before, but it was there, dark and cold in the shade.

She didn't put her face in it this time. She put her hand flat on the rock and waited for her mother to catch up.

In the shade of the rock shelf, Kapi sits with her head back against the rock and one arm tight around Tjulpu, the rock-hole dark beside them.

Water in it

Kapi drank for a long time. Then she sat down in the shade of the shelf, put her head back against the rock, and closed her eyes.

“How far was that?” she said.

“A morning,” Tjulpu said. “The way Manta goes.”

“The way you go was longer.”

“I got the ridge wrong.”

“You got us here.” Her mother opened one eye. “Come here.”

Tjulpu sat down next to her and her mother put an arm around her and held on, harder than usual.

The baby came that night.

Tjulpu wasn't allowed to help, which she minded, so she sat by the little fire Ilkari had made and listened to her mother breathing and swearing, and then to Ilkari saying “Good, good, good,” and then to a thin new voice that didn't sound like anything she'd ever heard. It was a girl.

In the morning Tjulpu walked back toward the ledge, and met the rest of the band coming the other way, slowly. Manta was in the middle of them, with one arm over a young man's shoulders and her bad foot held up off the ground.

“Well?” Manta said.

“It's a girl.”

Manta closed her eyes for a moment. Then she said, “And the water?”

“It's there.”

“Of course it's there,” Manta said. “It's been there since before my grandmother. I meant, did you find it.”

“I went the wrong way at the ridge.”

“Everybody goes the wrong way at the ridge,” said Manta.

At dusk, the band sits very still behind low cover while kangaroos and a line of emus come down to drink at the little rock-hole; Tjulpu sits beside Manta, whose loosely hide-wrapped right foot rests on a rolled skin, and Kapi holds the newborn against her chest.

The end of winter

At dusk

That evening the whole Red Ledge band sat downwind of the little water, out of sight and very still, the way they did at the big one.

Tjulpu sat beside Manta, whose foot was wrapped up and propped on a rolled skin. The new baby was asleep on her mother's chest. The sky went orange, then purple, then the color of a bruise.

The kangaroos came in on the last of the light. Three, then five, then more, picking their way down off the gravel, ears turning, stopping and going on. A line of emus came after them, nervous and long-legged. Small birds came down to the edge of the water and drank and went up again in a rush.

Nobody moved. Nobody had to. Everything that lived out here was coming to the same place they were.

“Who knows about this water now?” Tjulpu whispered.

Manta thought about it. “Everybody. You brought them all.”

“So it's not mine anymore.”

“It was never yours. You were just the one who remembered.” Manta leaned over and looked at the baby. “One day there'll be one more.”

“When?”

“When she can walk a morning without being carried,” Manta said. “Then you take her.”

Tjulpu looked out at the water and the dark shapes bending over it, and at the ridge behind it, and the one tree going black against the sky. She said them all over to herself, just to be sure.

Your own life here

Here, the water decides.

As a child here, one of the old ones sits you down and walks you through the year, camp by camp. This is the Water Year, they say.

“Wait at the water and the meat walks to you. When the rains come you can go anywhere. When they stop, you can only be where the water is.”

An elder, on a card you meet as a child in the Great South Land
After the rains the band spreads out across the country. As it dries, everyone draws in to the water, people and animals both.
  1. Spring - The Hungry Season

    Stores gone, thaw not come. Carry the weak to the green.

    • Grass Seedbounty
    • Dust Stormthreat
    • Snake in the Campthreat
  2. Summer - The Long Light

    Long days, full hands. Lay in all you can.

    After the rain, the band spreads out.

    • The Long Heatthreat
    • The Water Failsthreat
    • Bad Waterthreat
  3. Autumn - The Great Hunt

    Store hard against the dark. The fat survive the lean.

    • Seed Headsbounty
    • Wild Rootsbounty
    • Grass Firethreat
  4. Winter - The Long Dark

    The cold, the dark, the long sickness. Endure it together.

    Everyone draws in to the water.

    • Deep Rootsbounty
    • The Cold Nightsthreat
    • The Dry Campthreat

Each season is a board of threats and bounties. You decide who in your band meets each one.

Evening in the red desert: a curved windbreak of bent boughs thatched thick with spinifex, its back to the wind, a small fire in front of it and a family settling in as the light goes.

Only in the desert country

Build a wiltja.

“Bend and lash a windbreak of boughs and spinifex, its back to the wind - a light shelter that shades the day and breaks the cold desert night.”

There’s no mammoth bone here and no soft bank to cut, so each family builds its own. It shades the worst of the day and breaks the cold that comes off the sand after dark, and it’s light enough to raise again wherever the band stops next. Once it’s up, it’s on your winter board as a place to shelter.

This part is real. People were living at Puritjarra rock shelter, in the Cleland Hills, by at least 32,000 years ago, and were already carrying red ochre there from more than 100 km away. Even in the coldest, driest part of the Ice Age they kept coming back to it. It’s close to reliable water.